then adjust the frame so all the corners line up with the ties on the fabric. Then begin assembling the frame as you did the first time, but before you tie the top and bottom spreaders together slip the fabric over the frame. Simply mark all the joints while you have the frame together, then take it apart and use a good knife or small chisel to make all the notches. Also sew on strips of cloth at the ends and where the base of the triangle meets the spreader to attach the wings to the frame.īefore you start final assembly of the kite you may want to notch the sticks where the spreaders meet the body to ensure the frame will stay rigid. Sew a pocket in the outer point of the wings to accomidate the ends of the spreader. Remember to leave room for a hem on all sides. then measure 9 inches out from that mark, simply connect this point to the ends of the first line and you have a triangle. On the fabric draw a line 35 inches long, from one end mark the distance just measured. Measure from the point the top spreaders meet the frame to the center of the spreader that supports the wings. The wings of the kite will be 35 inches (assuming dowles are 36 inches) along the base, and the points 9 inches from the base (double check this when you mock up the frame). To attach the fabric so as to be easily removed I sewed on strips of cloth at each point that the fabric came in contact with a joint in the frame. Then simply multiply that measurement times 4 and cut out your fabric by that length and 11 inches wide, of course leaving room for a 1/4 inch hem on all sides and 1/2 an inch for the seam where the ends come together. Check this measurement yourself as it may vary. Once you have your frame set up with the spreaders tied together at their centers and at 90degrees to each other, measure around the outside of the frame, it should be approximately 11 and 1/2 inches between the main frames. If you're going to put wings on your box kite, simply substitute a full dowel for one of the inside spreaders. Tie on the top and bottom spreaders on one set of sticks first, then the other and then slide them together and tie the spreaders together at their centers. Mark 1/2 an inch from each end on the spreaders themselves. Measure 1/2 an inch from the ends of each long stick and make a mark for the spreaders, also measure 11 and 1/2 inches from each and make another mark for the spreaders. Now you've got eight small sticks and four long ones. the ends of the stick should make little circles while the wood breakes where you scored it with the knife. An easy way to do this without a saw is to mark where it's to be cut,score it deeply with a knife, then hold the stick with your thumbs close to the cut and slowly rotate your wrists. Start by cutting four 1/4 inch sticks in half. It's probablly best to tie the frame up first so you can double check the placement of the sticks and measurements of the fabric. and also the ends of the bridle to the kite. the bowline - this will be the best knot to connect the tow-string (the heavy fishing line) to the bridle. the artillery loop - this will be used on the bridle, (I'll explain later) it's easy to tie and untie so if you need to change it's position it's quick and easy. like the constrictor this won't leave a knot if the stick is removed. the marlinspike hitch - the constrictor knots need to be pulled very tight and one of the best ways to do that is to tie the loose ends to sticks so you don't have to kill your hands trying to pull directly on the string. try tying this over your finger or a single stick, if done correctly when you remove your finger and pull on the ends the string will pull straight, leaving no knot. the constrictor - this is what you'll be binding the frame of the kite together with. These can be quite easy to tie wrong, practice them before applying them to the kite. You'll only need to know 4 knots for the construction and operation of this kite.
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